THE HAMILTON WATERWORKS.

In modern day Hamilton we are so lucky to have water when we want it and also use as much as we want but in the old days water was not always on tap. Hamilton has old water wells dug deep where a shaft would be ‘sunk’ down to the natural water supply, and this was how the old Hamiltonian’s who were not living close to one of the local burns got their water. In fact, there are lots of wells in Hamilton that our streets take their names from such as ‘Portwell’, ‘Wellbrae Road’ & ‘Blackswell Lane’. Further to this one famous well of its time was called ‘The Lady’s Well’, a contradiction of ‘Our Lady’s Well. This well was a slow running one and it yielded only one gallon of water in five minutes, however, the Lady’s Well was a favorite of many of the townsfolk as it was recorded to have some of the best ‘Tea Making Water’ in the town! And, not to mention that its slow flowing water provided wonderful opportunities for ‘Gossip’ at the wellhead. Sadly, the location of the Lady’s Well is unknown to me, but I would like to find it one day. One important thing to note is that to preserve the Scottish Sabbath, the town’s public wells were closed from the Saturday night till Monday morning, so if you missed your pail of water, you had to make do with the local burn water.

The water supply in Hamilton, as one might expect, was far from satisfactory, and the difficulties became more acute as the population grew. Boring wells was carried out in many streets at a great expense, and it was only after a major outbreak of cholera that the town council was persuaded to install a municipal water supply.

Let me take you back to 1704, when the population of Hamilton was less than 3,000 inhabitants, this of course being before they found out how our rich coal seams beneath the town were in abundance! The health of Hamilton was in a very bad state, and it was recorded in the town’s death registers that “Number of ye dead are 109 of which number there are children dead of Small-Pox 43”.

Eighteenth century Hamilton only consisted of a few streets in the vicinity of Hamilton Palace. The town as it grew had houses built on the higher ground up to Quarry Road, the New Kirk Road (Now Church Street) and out as far as the hamlet of Townhead (Now Townhead Street) Even in these new districts & streets of Hamilton, each house had its own “Midden” in front of it which would have attracted rats and other vermin. There was dampness and decay everywhere and the stench of decomposition lingered around the streets.

The very early and very few water wells installed in Hamilton were used for public property and according to the old burgh accounts of Hamilton, I found that the old records tell us that the town council sunk three public wells in the year 1733, the cost being met by voluntarily subscriptions. Many of the other public wells in future years were sunk at the public’s expense.

Records in the year 1787 when the population had risen to just under 5,000 ¬- 75 children were swept away by small-pox. It was not only diseases that required the town to have fresh water but In times of drought many wells dried up and could not keep up with the demand. The need for water was so bad that when in terrible times an unfortunate fire would break out it was hard to distinguish the old vennels in the town. The famous fire at Barrie’s Close which smoldered for eight days wiping out a whole large section of the old Hamilton Town brought much dismay and alarm of the Burgesses and council.

Hamilton had 5 practitioners at that time, and it was only later in 1841 when a report was run on the poor of the town that the appointment of a salaried medical officer was to be put in place. It was only then that a new awareness was brought for the need for better housing and municipal services.

There were also wells at the Tolbooth (Hamilton’s Jail House), the Castle Wynd, Quarry Loan Foot and there was also an undocumented well found in recent years at the Hamilton Museum. We hear even before these of Black’s Well. We also see the name recorded as ‘Portwell’ where even in 1941 there used to be a plaque visible on the gable end of an old house at the foot of Shieling Hill.

Some of Hamilton’s wells possessed special properties and were believed to have had powers of curing disease. As mentioned earlier, The Lady Well, once a place of pilgrimage at the old church and situated near the old Tolbooth, was said in latter days to be especially good for “masking” tea, and when the duke included the Tolbooth in the Palace grounds, public opinion was so strong that he had to lead a pipe from the well to the street.

The only well that never dried up was the Spout at the Avon Mill, and many an honest penny was earned carrying water to the town in times of scarcity. As mentioned, the wells were closed on Sundays, all water for the weekend having to be drawn on a Saturday night. One of the prominent ministers of the town was summoned to appear before the presbytery because he had allowed his servant-maid to draw water from his own private well on the sabbath.

As I move on from telling you about the earlier water supply in Hamilton, years later in the early eighteen hundreds, a man named Mr Robert McGavin of Tuphall House was instrumental in procuring the erection of certain public wells, which at the time proved a great boon to the inhabitants of the district.

He received a valuable service of plate from his constituents on retirement in token of his services. The inscriptions thereon bearing testimony to his corresponding philanthropic exertions. In fact, these influential Hamiltonian’s back in the day made sure that we wouldn’t think twice about going to a burn to get a drink of water but that’s where our ancestors all drank from.

By 1850, the population of Hamilton had grown to well over 10,000 inhabitants and it was then that a water supply came in for attention and parliamentary approval.

Putting the plan into action.

In the mid eighteen hundreds, Hamilton had no fresh water supply in fact, it was one of the worst areas of Scotland with a town of its size to have no water mains. Albeit, the town had a main burn running straight through it, so we were in a good position to have a fresh water supply, we just had to work out a way in how it could be brought to each part of the town. It was then that the town worthies started to think about taking the water not from the wells, but from Hamilton’s higher grounds.

The idea of Hamilton having its own burgh water supply was brought to the table during a town council meeting and a group of influential people in the town got together and in September 1852 they discussed if the town council should finance this massive project, or should a joint stock company be formed and it was then decided that it would be the latter. The Hamilton Water Company was established, and the provisional committee of men who stepped up to the plate were:

• John Meek Esq. of Fortisset – Provost of Hamilton.

• Baillie William Paterson – Builder.

• Baillie James Hamilton – Lace Manufacturer.

• Robert Brown. Esq of Dumbrixhill.

• William Leighton. Esq Hamilton Palace.

• William Aikman, Esq, Writer & Banker.

• P.W. Dixon, Esq Tuphall.

• William Rankin, Esq, Merchant.

Also, with power to add to their number were the following:

• Interim Treasurer – Thomas Anderson, Esq, Banker in Hamilton.

• Engineer – William Gayle, Esq, Buchanan Street, Glasgow.

• Interim Secretaries – Messrs. Henderson & Robertson, writers at County buildings in Hamilton.

In 1852 The town of Hamilton contained a population of over 10,000 souls, and it was rapidly increasing. There was no town in Scotland of the same extent so deficiently supplied with water, none being available either for sanitary purposes or for extinguishing fires, and but a very scantly supply for domestic uses, and that was procurable only at much trouble and expense to the inhabitants of that era.

Although Hamilton was nearly destitute of water, the town as it is today, was so fortunate to command and excellent and abundant supply of water by Gravitation. Today there are several sources of water on our high grounds towards the south-west. In the year 1852, they were all examined by the engineer on the water committee, William Gayle, and in the opinion of Mr. Gayle, the abundant supply of good water, suitable for all domestic purposes, could be obtained from the dear reservoir, via Earnock Burn and at a point near the old farm of Wellbrae, which was little more than mile from the town in a direct line.

For this plan to come in to action, a network of reservoirs would be installed high up above Hamilton, the water from these sources was to be brought into the Town along public roads without interfering with private property, excepting where it is proposed to form a reservoir and filters on the estate of Earnock.

From calculations made by Mr. Gayle, the probable cost of bringing the water in to the Burgh, from Wellbrae, including filters will not exceed the sum of £4660 and for Contingencies it was expected an additional £933.00 would be needed, bringing the cost of Hamilton’s new water supply to £5593. Did they keep to the budget?

THE DUKE & THE WATER SUPPLY.

The water supply coming through the town of Hamilton was the talk of the day amongst everyone, including the Duke of Hamilton. His Grace, the Duke of Hamilton, the magistrates and other influential parties in the town and neighborhood were all most anxious to promote the prosperity of the burgh, and the comfort and health of its inhabitants, by supplying them with an abundance of water which was the absolute necessity of which was admitted by all, and this would only be accomplished by means of a public company.

It was proposed that a joint stock company was to be formed for the purpose of building Hamilton’s water supply and the Hamilton Water Works were established. The subscribed capital that the board were looking to gain a higher amount of what was first thought and a sum of £8000 (Approximately £641,488.80 in today’s money) and this was to be divided into 1600 shares of £5.00 each (Approximately £401.00 in today’s money) If you put this into perspective, £5.00 back in 1852 could buy a person 7 stones of Wool, 2 quarters of wheat and it would pay a skilled tradesman’s wages for 25 days! This indeed was going to be the most important thing to happen in Hamilton since the discovery of coal.

The Hamilton Water Works Company needed this project to work and even though the brains behind this ambitious project could foresee what the benefits would bring to Hamilton, they had really sold the Idea of a modern-day Hamilton with each area having a fresh water supply coming from the Cadzow Burn that they had made a very bold statement and they told its investors to expect a handsome return of no less than 5% per annum! Yes, this was a project so large, that if some of Hamilton’s most notable worthies were buying into this and even his Grace the Duke of Hamilton, then why would the hard-working tradesman not want to tap into their life savings and get a share in this modern company! Let’s pray that this was going to be a success; everyone was counting on it.

For all the inhabitants of Hamilton, generally an abundant supply of water was going to be an Incalculable advantage and to none so more than the working classes. This was assuming that the water rates did not exceed 6d in the point of rental.

So, on Friday the 17th of September 1852 an advert was placed in the in all the major newspapers, including the Hamilton Advertiser & the Glasgow Herald reaching out to the people of Hamilton and the wider Lanarkshire offering shares of £5.00 each. This was a very smart move because back then the newspapers were a very trusted source of news & advertisements.

By November 1852, the momentum for the installation of the water works was building up and the company had now been to the courts to acquire lands, rivers, streams, springs & burns in the surrounding area of the town.

Notice was given to all “that the water works had applied to parliament in the session holden to the year 1853 for a bill for an act for the better supplying with clean water, the parliamentary burgh or town of Hamilton and suburbs thereof and places adjacent in the county of Lanark and for that purpose, with powers to take and acquire by compulsory purchase, or otherwise, lands and other Heritages and certain Rivers, Brooks, Streams and springs of water, and also to construct, lay down, and maintain, such Reservoirs, cuts, aqueducts and other works, with proper roads of approach, and other conveniences in connection therewith, as may be proper and necessary; AND in particular to construct and maintain the following works – that is to say, a Reservoir, or Reservoirs, with embankments and all proper works connected therewith on the Burn, Brook, or Stream called Earnock Burn, partly on the lands called Well-Brae, and partly on the lands called Laigh-Muirhouses, both in the parish of Hamilton; commencing at or near the farm steading of the said lands of Well-Brae, at a point marked ‘A’ on the plan hereinafter mentioned and terminating at points marked ‘B’ on the said plans also a filtering basin and a distributing basin on the said lands of Well-Brae and Leigh-Muirhouses in connection with and at, or near to the said Reservoir or Reservoirs; also a cut or conduit, commencing at, or near to a place called Kennedy’s House and terminating at or in the said Reservoir or reservoirs and also a main pipe or track commending to the said distribution basis, and terminating in the Town of Hamilton at, or near the south-west end of Almada Street; and also with powers to take and acquire Burn, Brook, or Stream called Kennedy’s Burn”.

The works required to bring fresh water from high up on the hills above Meikle Earnock and down to the town of Hamilton was indeed going to be a massive disruption BUT, nonetheless, the health of our ancestors was going to significantly improve by the town getting dragged into the modern world of having a fresh water supply.

The first reservoir to be installed was sunk in 1854 on the lands of Wellbrae Farm and even today, this dried up reservoir is still here on the same spot, hidden from view, you pass it as you drive down Muttonhole Road. The water was piped all the way from the dear reservoir some 52 miles from Hamilton. It held 54.5 m.g. of water.

Horrible Death at Leechlee Street.

At the time of the Water Works planning a terrible accident happened at Leechlee Street. On Wednesday the 2nd of January 1856 a well-known street character and Spaewife (Fortune Teller, or witch) known as Lizzie Steel who was known to be of intemperate habits died under shocking circumstances.

Poor Lizzy had been in her Leechlee street backyard where she drowned or was suffocated in the building cesspool. The state of the back premises in this street and other Hamilton streets that were inhabited by the poorer inhabitants of the town and loudly called for the attention of the board of health.

The middens and cesspools that lay in many of the poorer classes back yards were offensive and were giving very dangerous health issues to the townsfolk. They were dangerous to health and very hazardous to children and others going about in the dark.

One of these midden-steads was a tank said to be four feet deep and fully six feet square and was said to be quite easy to drown a person stumbling into it, and there was no fence to prevent such an accident.

Who was to blame for permitting the existence of such horrible man-traps and fever-breeders? The death of Lizzie Steel in such terrible circumstances would have no doubt assisted the Hamilton Water Works get some traction and from that day on, it was full steam ahead.

Falling behind on the completion date & Hamilton’s first ever piped water is used at Peacock Cross.

The company were trying their hardest to keep to their deadline for completing the works throughout Hamilton and by the 17th of May 1856 they had to admit to the townsfolk and their shareholders, that they had fallen behind schedule.

Owning to the failure of the contractor to observe the terms of his contract, to have the works completed by 15th of May, it was still to be several months before the works were to be finished.

The pipes throughout the town by then had been laid and by Thursday the 15th of May the water was let on. A hose was attached to the fire-plug at Peacock Cross, and the very first supply of pipe water to be brought through Hamilton was inaugurated by the Provost, in presence of the water commissioners, taking the nozzle of the hose in his hand, and playing the water over the tops of the adjacent houses.

FATAL ACCIDENT AT THE RESERVIOUR.

On Monday the 22nd of July 1860 an unfortunate accident happened at the Wellbrae waterworks. James Mitchel Jr, who was the son of Mr. Mitchell, the Waterworks superintendent was drowned while at his work. The sad accident happened around 10:00am where James, who was employed at the waterworks, had been repairing and painting the wooden gangway which led from the side and in towards the center of the reservoir.

James had been seated on a makeshift wooden raft made of planks of wood and it was thought that the planks had sailed from under his feet. Being unable to swim, James fell into the reservoir which was 10 feet in depth and about 7 feet from the embankment.

A workman who was near the embankment heard a cry and on approaching, he seen the head of James slipping beneath the water.

Being unable to swim himself, the workman could not do anything to assist and tried to fetch help. A boat was fetched from Bothwell Bridge and there was a search carried out, where they found James’s body near the side of the embankment at 2:00pm.

James was unmarried and it was said that he was a very well-behaved young man, and he was a member of the Hamilton No. 2 Rifle Company. James was buried at the Wellhall Road Cemetery and at his funeral were all the staff at the Waterworks along with members of his platoon. There were more sad times for this family, as James Mitchell Sr, died only a few years later. James Mitchell Sr. had been living at 5 St. Johns Lane when he passed away.

THE FIRST WATER RATES INTRODUCED IN HAMILTON.

By June 1862 it was time for the company to start recuperating its money and we see the very first water rates being introduced to Hamilton and how would the Hamiltonian of that century view these charges? I have the feeling that Hamilton’s outspoken folk, just as they are today on the Hamilton News Stand community Facebook group would be talking in the streets about the ridiculous high charges and why would they want to pay for their water, when they could simply just walk to a standpipe, or a mile or two to the nearest burn and get their pails of water for free! It would also probably be fair to say that not all of Hamilton’s people could afford this luxury of water piped directly to them.

William Alston Dykes, the commissioner of the Hamilton waterworks put out a statement in the Hamilton Advertiser, the Hamilton Herald, and other new outlets that the company had started the 45th clause of the Hamilton Water Works where charges would be applied to its direct customers, and they were proposing to apply the following charges to its ratepayers:

Domestic Purposes:

• Shops, Offices & Workshops 3d per £1.**

• Hotels, Spirit Shops and Public Houses 6d per £1.

• Water Closets within Inns, Hotels and other public establishments each 7s 6d. **

• Baths in Hotels 7s 6d.

The money due was to be made payable 1 year in advance, except where money was taken by meter in which case the money was to be taken half-yearly.

** 3d (three pence), with reference to the above, this became thruppence, commonly referred to as a “threepenny bit”. 6d (six pence) known as a “tanner” or half a shilling. 2/– (two shillings, or one florin, colloquially “two-bob bit”)

What was old money worth today?

The pound was the same pound we use today. We still have a penny, but the old one was larger in size and worth a lot less. The shilling is no longer UK currency. It had a value of 12 old pennies, or 12 pence.

How much did things cost in old money?

English butter per lb 3/-

Nescafé 2oz 2/3

Omo washing powder per lb – 1/11

** 7s 6d was roughly £22.17p in today’s money.

INSPECTION OF THE WATER WORKS 25th APRIL 1864.

Eight years after its construction the waterworks was undergoing a routine inspection and below is a transcription taken from the inspector.

“We recently spoke of the very satisfactory state of these works and are now enabled to give the result of Mr. Gale’s inspection, as detailed in his report, which was submitted to the commissioners at their meeting Tuesday last. The success of the undertaking has, from the first, been so unvaried that few the townspeople would consider a formal inspection of the works necessary, still it most gratifying to know how well they have stood the scrutiny of a gentleman of Mr. Gale s standing and experience”.

The Commissioners the Hamilton Water Works replied:

“Gentlemen, I had the pleasure of accompanying Provost Dykes, and other Water Commissioners, over the works. The whole are in a stale of complete efficiency and are in good repair. The embankment of the reservoir always was, and continues to be, perfectly watertight.

It has preserved the shape and outline given it when completed, about eight years ago, almost unchanged. The slight excess of height with which it was constructed, to allow for future subsidence, in part still remains and the embankment will now probably never settle down to a perfectly level line top. It was constructed with great care, and pains were taken to consolidate the material, foot by foot, the embankment was raised”.

“The puddle trench was sunk to considerable depth below the original surface, and the result has shown that a perfectly water-tight foundation has been reached. The spring met with in the bottom the trench, and which was conducted to the tail of the outer slope by a six-inch cast-iron pipe, continues to discharge much the same quantity of water it did before water was put the reservoir.

The thickness in the puddle wall is in excess of what usually allowed for embankments of this height; and the whole material of which the embankment is composed is of clayey and water-tight nature.

This embankment has nothing in common with the embankment which lately failed near Sheffield. There, they had a deep valley with layers of open rock and shale forming the sides and bottom. The material forming the embankment is full of stone and quite open, and was put in layers about five feet high, and left consolidate itself.

The puddle wall was not thick as the Hamilton embankment, although the height is three times greater, and no valves were put the inside end of the pipes has been done at Hamilton. I have every confidence in the security of the embankment and in the efficiency of the whole work; and my confidence has increased from the fact that it is not now an untried piece of work, but one that has been subject many times within the last eight years to the most severe tests that can be brought upon it, both from the reservoir being quite full and from the occurrence of heavy floods.

The only thing I can find to remark upon is the perishing of some of the stone pitching the embankment near the top water level, and in the flood water channel. This will require some repairs during the summer. l am. Gentlemen, your obedient servant, Signed “James M. Gale.”

By July 1865 some of the townsfolk were not looking after their water supply and the waterworks were forced to put out a notice in the Hamilton Advertiser. Some of the townsfolk had overflowing cisterns and broken waterpipes which was leading to water being wasted. So, to try and stop the wastage, the company was going to impose fines which could be as much as £5, or the household could have their supply cut off.

The waterworks like today were trying to educate its customers that the supply pipes and cisterns were to be maintained by the individual and not by the water company.

This issue was getting worse and by May 1869 the company were given powers to visit every house in Hamilton who had a water supply. The inspectors would check every pipe and cistern and if a household was found to have been wasting water, or had any broken apparatus, then fines would be put upon the tenant of the property.

The waterworks were approaching fourteen years of service and it was time to upgrade some of its apparatus. The reservoir at Earnockmuir had two massive filters that prevented mud and other debris getting into the supply pipes. The first water filter was completed on the 25th of November 1870 and for a period of time, the water had to be drained and turned off to allow the work to be carried out.

Mr. Anderson, a banker, was in presence with two other of the water commissioners, Mr. Meek, and Mr. Forrest, also present was councilor Keith. The two new filters were larger than a modern-day house and stood 50ft by 36ft and as you can imagine, the installation of the filters would have been a very large job to undertake.

When they were installed, they gave an area of nearly three times the extent of the old ones, which had been in use since it was opened, the purity and good quality of the water was to be proportionally increased.

Owing to the extraordinary pluvial nature of the soil caused by the carrying out of the operations, the beneficial effects was not to be realised for a few weeks, when the work was to be finally completed.

The old filter was intended to filter only 12,000 gallons of water per day, while the consumption of the town by 1870 was an average of over 225,000 gallons. It was then to be seen why the improvements were urgently called for and it was then that a second reservoir was to be planned.

The replacing of the old fire-clay conduits by 8-inch cast iron pipes between the reservoir and the clean water tank was to also add materially to the excellence of the water.

It was also added that the commissioners had obtained sufficient grounds to enable them, if necessary, to construct a third filter and an additional tank. The large hole in the ground which was left after the new installation was to be enclosed by a substantial fence and the cost of the improvements cost the company around £1500 (£189,978.95 in today’s money). The contract was given to Mr. J. Purdie of Hamilton and R Tennant of Strathaven. (Purdie Street in Burnbank is named after this builder)

Only five years later in 1875 the towns folk were consuming much more water and it was in this year that the first Cadzow Reservoir was installed, and substantial work was once more needed to maintain the grounds at the reservoir, this being installed close to Earnockmuir Farm.

The clerk to the commissioner was another member of the powerful Dyke’s family and Edward P. Dykes on the 6th of November 1875 put a notice in the Hamilton Advertiser inviting companies to put in a tender for the construction for the two new reservoir embankments and a fire clay and iron pipe conduit and it was importantly listed that the lowest price would not necessarily be accepted.

A GREEDY LANDOWNER GOES TO COURT.

On Thursday the 2nd of June 1887 Hamilton’s Baronet and coal master Sir John Watson or Earnock was taken to court by the Hamilton Water Works. The majority of the Committee recommended acceptance of the terms offered by the Duke of Hamilton and Mr. Watson or Earnock for the ground for a new reservoir and that the construction be proceeded with the estimated cost being £4150.

Mr. Wylie, convener of the committee explained that while the duke agreed to lease the ground at £4 an acre, reserving the mineral rights, Mr. Watson asked the same sum also reserving the minerals together with £200, or £8 a year for damage done to a quarry and plantation, one million gallons of water per annum, or a daily supply of 2750 gallons for compensation water, and liberty to fish on the stream.

A long discussion followed in which the unreasonable character or Mr. Watson’s demands were strongly anjmadverted on, and it was finally agreed to delay the matter and, in the meantime, to send a deputation to Mr. Watson to endeavor to get better terms arranged for. Yes, in my opinion Mr. Watson was a greedy man, but this was how he became so rich and powerful during the family’s reign in Hamilton.

WATER SUPPLY AS WE KNOW IT TODAY.

In 1888 notice was given to the inhabitants of Hamilton telling its people that a ‘Bill’ had been passed in parliament and that there was going to be major upheaval and disturbance which would be affecting everyone from the town, the outskirts and even up through the countryside.

Water was now going to be an integral part of every area, street, household and building throughout the burgh and when the ‘Bill’ passed in parliament it would allow the waterworks to dig through the farmers’ fields, the streets and pipes, standpipes and pumps would be getting installed.

The water was to be taken from the Kype Stream that flowed from the far back lands of Avondale in the parish of Lesmahagow and with the mass of water required for the town of Hamilton. The second basin was to be built south of the lands of Hamilton and they were both now given names and were known as Cadzow Reservoirs 1 and 2.

The main one was number 1 which was called ‘Hispielaw’ (This was the one at Earnockmuir) and number 2 which was in front of it, close to Muttonhole Road this was called ‘Burnhead’. These reservoirs would work alongside Wellbrae. The second reservoir named Burnhead was to be a storage reservoir and it was to run in line with the Cadzow Burn.

THE WATERWORKS GO TO COURT SEPTEMBER 1899.

It wasn’t too long after the latest groundwork had started that the work being carried out throughout the lands of Hamilton had started to annoy certain folk! There was a very wealthy landowner who went by the name of Mr. Hope Vere.

Mr. Vere was in his day a very rich man and he could afford to take on the mighty water works company, so on Monday the 11th of September 1899 a special meeting was held at the Hamilton town council chambers for the purpose of considering a report from the water committee for a settlement of Mr. Vere’s claim in connection with the new works at the Kype. Yes, indeed, the water works committee, brought out their ‘Big Guns’ and Provost Keith presided and the other members in attendance were none other than Bailies MacHale, Pollock and Smellie, treasure Keith, and councilors Kemp, North, Tainsh, Meechan, Purdie and Rose with Messrs. W. Pollock and P.M. Kilpatrick the town clerk.

As I stated beforehand, you will of course know that Hamilton has some of its streets named after most of these men.

Provost Keith asked the town clerk to read the communications which had been received from Mr. Hope Vere’s agents setting forth the conditions under which they were prepared to accept any offer of compensation made by the commissioners.

The communication was as follows:

110 George Street, Edinburgh, 7th September 1899 – Dear Sir, We refer to your letter dated the 26th July, the offer in which has now been carefully considered by Mr. Hope Vere and his advisers, Mr. Hope Vere will be glad if terms can be arranged, but he is not willing to agree to accept the sum named in your letter, nor is he willing to agree to all the alterations in the conditions named to him. With a view, however, still to an amicable settlement, we are authorised to write to you again as follows:

1. The price and compensation to be paid by the Hamilton Water Works Commissioners to be £3500, this sum including payments for land taken for the reservoir, for wayleave for the road of access, and for the track, in which one pipeline only shall be laid as shown on the notice plan, dated 29th July 1898, for severance and damage to shootings during the construction of the reservoir. Interest at five percent shall run on the paid sum from the date of the commissioners breaking ground.

2. The Hamilton Water Works Commissioners to settle Mr. Hope Vere’s tenants claims for compensation, for loss of tenants’ profit, or of any other kind, and for disturbance during the construction of the works except only a proportionate abatement of rent for the land taken. As shown on the notice plan which Mr. Hope Vere will allow. The commissioners shall also be able and pay for the repair of any fences and dykes injured or broken down by workmen employed by the contractors.

3. The commissioners shall further settle all tenants’ claims, arising from time to time, through the inspection, maintenance, and repair of the works.

4. The Hamilton Water Works Commissioners shall fence in the reservoir and if required by Mr. Hope Vere, but only in the event that the access road, or as much thereof as he may require, and shall maintain the fences in all time, and they shall all necessary gates on the road of access. They shall also be bound to keep the access roads in proper repair to the reasonable satisfaction of Mr. Hope Vere, and he and his tenants shall always be entitled to use it for all ordinary agricultural and sporting purposes. The commissioners shall reinstate all pipes, drains, walls, and fences interfered with by them.

5. Mr. Hope Vere or his successors shall be entitled to connect pipes to the commissioners’ main to take a supply of water to his farms of Juanhill, Deadwaters and Yardbent, or any of them, and without any charge or assessment being made by the commissioners for their right, or for the water he or his tenants may use, the connections with the main pipe being made by the commissioners at their expense, the ferrules, stopcocks, and pipes from such connecting points to the farms being provided and laid at the expanse Mr. Hope Vere and his successors.

6. The commissioners shall settle all competent claims against them arising at the instance of lower proprietors or others for loss of water or otherwise.

7. The commissioners shall maintain the works in all time in good order. In the event of any damage occurring in consequence of the default of the commissioners in connection with their operations in constructing, inspecting, maintaining, or repairing the works, to Mr. Hope Vere’s lands or his tenants’ crops or stock by overflow of water or bursting of pipes, they shall be bound to compensate him or them, therefore. It shall be no bar to the said compensation that the damage has been caused, directly or indirectly by the lawful operations of Mr. Hope Vere or his successors, or his or their tenants in the ordinary and proper occupation of the lands or reserved minerals and others or in any other manner of way.

8. The line of access road of pipe shall be adhered to as closely as possible, and not altered without Mr. Hope Vere’s consent, nor shall more than one pipe be laid without payment or further wayleaves.

9. In the conveyance of the ground for the reservoir, the whole rights of shooting and fishing on the reservoir shall be received to Mr. Hope Vere and his successors, and he or they shall be entitled, if he or they so desire, to place a boat on the water for the use of himself, his family and visitors resident for the time being in his house, and others duly authorised in writing by him or foresaid, and to stock the reservoir with trout from time to time. Provided always that should the works of the commissioners be damaged by the use of the boat, Mr. Hope Vere shall be bound to make the necessary repairs at his own expense, and in case of his failure to do so timeously, the commissioners shall be entitled to make the repairs at his expense and to recover the same in any contempt court: provided, further, that the boat shall not be used nor the reservoir so stocked with trout as to foul the water in the reservoir in any way. The coal ironstone, shale stone and other minerals and fossils under the land to be acquired, except only such part thereof as shall be necessary to be dug or carried away or used in the construction of the works, provided he takes permission and removes them forthwith. The terms of the Water Works Clause Act, 1847, shall apply to such excepted minerals, stone, and others.

10. The commissioners shall, over and above the aforesaid sum of £3500, pay the whole expenses Mr. Hope Vere has incurred in the matter, including the fees of his advising engineer, and of his law agents. His property being entailed, a formal nomination of valuators under the lands clauses act will be necessary, and the whole expense of this, and in connection with the conveyance to be granted, which will be in the statutory form, shall also be paid by the commissioners. If the final offer, for Mr. Hope Vere, which is open for fourteen days, be not accepted it is not to be founded on or referred to in any subsequent proceedings.

Yes, Mr. Hope Vere was indeed a real hard-nosed businessman of his day and was brave to ask for such a large amount in return. However, the waterworks commissioners truly were backed into a corner and Mr. Hope Vere had the ball in his court.

THE OUTCOME.

The committee eventually agreed to offer the sum of £3500 for settlement of the claim, and to grant a supply of water to the three farms named, on condition that the pipe leading such supply be no larger than one-half inch in diameter, and that the supply further did not exceed 1000 gallons per day to each farm. The commissioners reserved power to have meter regulating such supply.

Regarding the permission sought for to place a boat on the reservoir, it was agreed that the words” and others duly authorised in writing by him or his foresaid” be deleted, and that the permission extended only to Mr. Hope Vere, his family, visitors, and servant’s resident in his house. It was agreed to recommend Mr. Alexander Allan, valuator, for the formal references.

Provost Keith, in moving the adoption of this report, said that Mr. Hope Vere at first claimed £4000, while they offered £3200. The letter read at the outset of the meeting was in reply to that offer. The engineer, to whom the meeting had been referred, considered under all the circumstances. That the offer of Mr. Hope Vere to take £3500 in settlement of all the claim was a fair one and was to be preferred to the proposal of going to arbitration, where perhaps hundreds of pounds, in advance of the anticipated estimate might have to be expended.

The water committee, prior to this meeting, had given the mater due consideration, and had agreed to recommend the acceptance of the offer of £3500.

Baillie MacHale seconded the adoption of the report. Although this appeared to be a high price to pay for the amount which they required at the Kype, he thought, comparing it to the sums paid in similar circumstances by other bodies that the Hamilton Water Works commissioners were making a good bargain indeed.

An old right of way.

By December 1899, the upheaval of the new water works were not only annoying landowners, but they were upsetting a local Hamiltonian who enjoyed having long walks up the fields and back roads of the town. Someone anonymously wrote a letter to the Hamilton Herald newspaper to voice their concerns.

Sir. – Throughout the columns of your valuable newspaper allow me to call public attention to the closing of an old right of way, which has been used as a public road for upwards of 70 years. This old road branches off at what is known as the Strathaven Railway Bridge, through part of Mackie’s farm and on to Cornhills farm, making a nice “short cut” to Hamilton Water Works.

Now, it is a great pity we should lose such a nice country walk as this walk, to be shut out and compelled to walk on a dusty toll road on a summer’s day. Does any of our parish councilors know of this? If so, why is it allowed? I hope our councilors will see to this and have it re-opened unless there is a reason for having it closed. I fail to see any reason whatever. – I am yours, etc. Right of Way.

This old right of way is sadly out of memory for many of the people of Hamilton, however, I know exactly where it was! And I am pleased to say that this old byway still today is very much in existence, albeit it’s now used as a farmer’s track. Many of you would certainly have walked this old byway without knowing that it once was a public right of way and as we now have the freedom to roam act, you, and I unlike the person in 1899 can now walk up this steep old byway and enjoy some of Lanarkshire’s finest views.

The old byway can be found in two ways, one when you travel up Strathaven Road, or when you walk on the old railway line that leads from Meikle Earnock Road down to the Strathaven Road.

As shown on my 1888 – 1913 map of Hamilton, you will see where I have outlined the old right of way. You can approach the start of this walk from the old railway line at the Strathaven Road end, also known as the ‘Black Path’.

From here you look straight ahead over to the fields looking towards Strathaven and you will see a little dirt & stone path. You can then walk parallel to the railway line within the field, and it will then incline up a steep hill up towards an old ruined out-building.

From here you can enjoy some of the fantastic views over Hamilton & Lanarkshire, great for pictures, you can walk another few minutes and you will come to the end of the track and here you will be met with a metal gate. This is where the track ends, however, if you choose to continue to walk across the fields, be mindful of cattle and please keep a dog on the leash, the farmer won’t be too happy if you upset any of his livestock. Now, back to the Water Works.

A JOLLY DAY OUT.

By 1910 the reservoirs were a part of everyday life for the people of Hamilton and the commissioners were still on top of their inspections. On Wednesday the 22nd of July that year there was a day out made from the visit where members of the town council invited some special guests to have the day out with them.

The meeting started at the Town House at 10:00am where the party of six boarded a carriage supplied by Mr. William Wallace, (The town carriage-hirer) and was led by Mr. C Robertson, the town officer, who was dressed in all his full hat, robes & uniform.

The party headed out on their jolly up through Brandon Street, Union Street and on to Wellhall Road, where they visited the filters at Townhill.

Having inspected the different plants to be seen there, the drive was continued to the reservoirs at Wellbrae & Cadzow, the latter on this occasion being reached by way of Burnhead Farm (Owned by Farmer W. Brownlie) to permit the party viewing the inlet.

It was found that at both places there were large sheets of water, and it was felt that the town’s supply for the summer was well assured. Re-entering the machines, the latest filters at Blackbog on Strathaven Road were the next place of halt and there amidst much mirth & mock ceremonial the novices of the company were initiated into the “Mysteries” of sand filtration.

A delightful drive was thereafter enjoyed to Strathaven, where luncheon was excellently served by Mrs. Kemp of the Crown Hotel. At the very acceptable function, the chair was taken by ex-Bailie Smellie, the enthusiastic convener of the Water Committee.

He was supported by Mr. W. R. Copland, Civil Engineer – Glasgow. The croupiers were Bailie Kemp and treasurer Paterson. The other members of the company included Bailies Cassells, Anderson, and Robertson; Councilors Moffat, Gilmour, Brown, Slorach and Walker; Mr. James Mackie, burgh chamberlain; Mr. John Millar, chief constable Mr. P. M. Kirkpatrick, town clerk; Mr. W. H. Purdie, water superintendent; Mr. W Allan, foreman; Mr. Robert Weir. J.P. Fiscal; Mr. W Bennett, Upholsterer, Mr. Thomas Anderson, Builder; Mr. John McGirr, Mr. Alex Rankin (From America) and press representatives.

Apologies for absence were intimated from Mr. W. Alston Dykes (the oldest of the water commissioners in the burgh), ex-Provost Keith and commissioner Gun; Dr Loudon Medical officer; Mr. T. Gillespie, assessor, and others.

The loyal toasts having been duly proposed from the chair, the toast of “Hamilton Town Council” was very happily submitted by Mr. Copland. He recalled the long association his father, the late Sir William Copland had with the water schemes of Hamilton and went on to state that his own personal connection with this important department of the burgh’s work dated from 1886, in which year he had discharged his first commission as an apprentice civil engineer at the Wellbrae reservoir.

He coupled the toast with the name of the provost Pollock, who made a racy and assuming reply. “The Water Committee” was next proposed by Mr. Bennett and ex Bailie Smellie in reply, reviewed very interestingly the present-day features of the burgh’s water supply.

Mr. Moffat proposed the guests and Messrs. Anderson and Rankine acknowledged. The latter, who is a friend of Bailie Kemp’s and presently on a visit from New York to this country was particularly happy in his acknowledgement of the council’s kindness which he laughingly added he would have pleasure in returning should Hamilton’s municipal representatives ever visit America. The concluding toast was that of “Chairman and Croupiers” submitted by Bailie Cassells in characteristic fashion.

The drive was afterwards continued to Kype where the town’s largest and most important water scheme was inspected, and everything proved to be in the best condition. Mr. Maider, the resident superintendent, was heartly complimented upon the grounds being kept and attractively laid out. The homeward drive was via Blackwood, Hamilton being reached shortly after eight o’ clock in the evening.

This indeed would have been a fantastic Jolly boy outing on that day and dare I say that they were quite cheery with all the toast that they gave each other. I wonder if all the town worthies of today could invite someone from America to have a get together, go out a wee jaunt around Hamilton and its surrounding areas with lunch and drinks and get away with it? I will leave that answer to you!

WATERWORKS TODAY AT BOTH SITES.

In the Summer of 2023 myself and my son Daniel visited the site of the Cadzow filters and then later with my friend Andrew Robertson, we took all the kids to the other site at Wellbrae.

We done some great exploring and there is a lot to be found at these sites. If you plan to take a trip up to the high grounds, please be mindful of the farmers field, close gates and look out for the cattle.

The site at the Cadzow filters is not safe for kids to explore on their own, there is a lot of cobbles and brickwork that has been overgrown with moss and grass and there is an abandoned shaft that I suspect leads to the filter basin, I did not want to descend down the ladder to see if there was any kind of network of tunnels, in my opinion it’s not safe. There are also some great areas where the very first old Hamilton Quarries were dug beneath the fields, we sometimes forget how much history we are surrounded with.

On the site of Hamilton’s very first reservoir at Wellbrae, this area today is a much different story. There is a lot of marsh ground, and you will have to be mindful if you have a walk around here. The ground also has mounds which are deep in places, a theory which I have for the land being so torn up is that further east just of Strathaven Road, this was the site of the ‘Ack Ack’ base and on the other side of Newhousemill Road was the other ‘Ack Ack’ battery. I know that during WW2, we set up large fires in the countryside to make the Germans believe that this is where the targets were and it just so happens that some of these targets were indeed situated just of Newhousemill Road, so it is possible that the uneven ground at the waterworks sites could have either had deliberate bombs dropped, or stray ones. There is no doubt plenty of things to be uncovered on these sites and one day they will reveal their secrets.

For some of Hamilton’s older residents, they can still remember deep water being on that site. In July 2023 I was on holiday in the south of Spain, and I met with Hamilton man Davie Hughes, and he was telling me that when he was a young boy he can still recall going up to the old reservoir and doing a spot of fishing and this would have been in the 1950’s.

When we stopped using the Hamilton Reservoir run by the Hamilton Water Works, we started to get our water from other sources at the Daer water and over time our reservoir’s dried up and faded in people’s memories. Wellbare is nothing more than a marshy piece of broken ground and Cadzow, as stated, is very unsafe. Some companies have currently been sinking Co2 shafts and pipes to test the land up there, why I do not know but perhaps the land will be earmarked for something soon.

What memories do you have of Hamilton’s old Reservoir’s? If you can remember them, please let us know.

Researched & written by Garry McCallum – Historic Hamilton. © 2023

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UDSTON HOUSE.

UDSTON HOUSE. – Researched & written by Garry McCallum.Udston today..jpg

Many of Hamilton’s old mansions and country houses have long been demolished, whether through falling in to disrepair or by subsidence through the collapse of an old coal mine deep beneath its foundations, however, Udston house has stood the test of time and is still to this day standing proudly on a high vantage point that would once have commanded views over the vast countryside of Lanarkshire.

There has been a house standing on the site of Udston since 1593 which belonged to John Hamilton of Udston, an ancestor of Lord Belhaven and Stenton whose wife purchased the present house in 1893. I will tell you about Lady and Belhaven later in the story.

Udston House is a country mansion and it was built between 1851 & 1855 by Lewis Potter.  It was a fine mansion having ornamental grounds with a large garden. It had offices with a glasshouse adjoining it. Udston House is built upon the site of Mains of Udston, a name now extinct and long forgotten.

The house had 3 public rooms, 11 Bedrooms, 2 dressing rooms, Pantries, Store Rooms, a boot room and it boasted of having ample servant’s accommodation. It had a conservatory, a walled garden, vineries and stables. It also had its very own coach house and a Byre, and the extensive gardens surrounded its grounds.

Lewis Potter WM

Before I tell you about Udston House, it is important that I tell you a bit about the man who built it. Lewis Potter was a very rich and powerful man. He was born at Falkirk on 29 May 1807 and he was the son of James Potter and Janet Wilson. He had a keen mind for business and became very prosperous as a shipper. He then speculated in Australian land, and through this, he became a very wealthy man. He was invited to join the board of the City of Glasgow Bank in 1859, where he quickly progressed and became a director, and he borrowed large sums for his land speculation.

Lewis Potter Trial.

His job as a director in the bank nearly ruined Lewis Potter when the 1878 recession affected many people across Brittan, the City of Glasgow Bank collapsed with debts of over £5 million and the directors were taken to court and found guilty. Lewis Potter received an 18-month prison sentence for the part in which he played that instigated the bank’s collapse.

When Lewis’ prison sentence ended, he returned home and continued to live at Udston House until he sold the country mansion between 1879 & 1881.

This picture shows Lewis Potter and his family seated at the front of Udston House and it was taken in the year 1877, this could have been the last picture before the family moved from the family home at Udston.

The front Of Udston House 1877

In the picture, L-R is: Susan Colville Potter, Lewis Potter, Louisa Catherine Black, Christina Gladstone Richardson, Margaret Muirhead Potter, John Alexander Potter, Emma Muirhead Potter, Margaret ‘May’ Potter Muirhead & James Muirhead Potter. I have to say that Lewis looks deep in thought in this picture, and when it was taken in 1877, Lewis would have been looking straight in the direction of Glenlee House. This view in his day was quiet countryside, unlike the view today, where you would be staring at the Udston Woods, St. John Ogilvie High School and the new houses that were built on the edge of the Udston woods.

So, back to Udston House!

Emma Muirhead Potter age 21.

After the House was built, the very first recorded birth at Udston House was the daughter of Lewis Potter who was born on the 2nd of November 1856 and her name was Emma Muirhead Potter. This was Emma’s family home until she moved to Edinburgh with her father when she was in her early 20s.

On the 28th March 1861, a marriage takes place at the house where Lewis’ second oldest daughter Jean Ronald Potter marries a man named William Orr and this man, like her father, was also a Glasgow Merchant. Udston House had beautiful gardens and in 1861. It was surrounded by the quiet countryside so this would have been the perfect place for a marriage to take place.

Lewis Potter had other land interests in the local area and not only owned Udston House, he also owned Greenfield Farm, Udston Farm, Udston & Dykehead Farms, land at Birdsfield and the farmland in which he owned was leased out various people for the extraction of coal.  As Lewis moved away from Udston House and Hamilton, he just missed out on the opportunity to exploit this extraction of the rich coal seems beneath his lands. It is unknown why he did not become a coal master; Perhaps Lewis was aware that there was black gold under his lands and maybe he never acted on starting a mining firm due to his losses in Australia and he knew more than any man about the risk involved. After all, he was more of a ‘landlord’ than a coal master.

In the year 1861, the staff working and living at Udston House were the following:

  • Janet Stark (50) – Domestic Servant – Born: Cambusnethan.
  • Agnes Brown (26) – Domestic Servant- Born: Mauchline.
  • Mary Shaw (28) – Domestic Servant – Born: Kinross.
  • Margaret Mitchell (24) Domestic Servant – Born: Moorgreen, Fife.
  • Margaret Patrick (24) Domestic Servant – Born: Eaglesham.
  • Alexander McMillan (28) Butler – Born: Dumbarton.
  • Ann Anderson (50) Companion (Lady in Waiting) Born: Glasgow.

The lady called Ann Anderson who was listed as a companion would have probably been Margaret Potter’s lady in waiting.

Other people working at Udston house in 1961 were the following:

  • James Baird (35) – Joiner – Udston Offices.
  • Neil McTaggart (40) – Coachman – Udston Offices.
  • Alexander Jarvis (27) – Gardiner – Udston Offices.
  • Margaret Parker (60) – Gatekeeper – Udston Lodge.
  • James Watson (28) – Gardiner – Udston Offices.

There are no local people employed at Udston House, Lewis Potter recruited people from Ayrshire, Dumbartonshire and Glasgow and surrounding areas of Hamilton. It is unknown if he was being prejudiced towards the people of Hamilton or not.

On the 7th of November 1863, Lewis puts out an advert in the Glasgow Herald and he is looking for a tenant to live and work at Greenfield Farm. Greenfield farm was still more of a working farm deep in the country and within the next Twenty years the coal which was buried beneath its grassy fields would transform this little place out in the country to an industrial small town which would see hundreds and thousands of people flocking to Burnbank and Hamilton looking for work.

A second marriage takes place on the 30th of March 1865 when Lewis’ other daughter Eliza Anne marries another Glasgow Merchant that went by the name of William Couper.

The Potter family’s lives were about to be torn apart! On the 2nd of August 1865 Lewis’ Oldest daughter Janet Wilson died of a fever at 64 Westbourne Terrace in London. The Hamilton Advertiser reported Janet’s death and it was printed on the 5th of August 1865 the following article was written.

“It is with feeling of painful surprise, and of no ordinary regret that we have to announce the death of this amiable and accomplished lady, at her uncles 0-house in London, cut off, in the prime of life, by fever, after an illness.”

Funeral Of the Late Miss Potter.

‘FUNERAL OF THE LATE MISS POTTER OF UDSTON HOUSE.’

On the 12th of August 1865, the Hamilton Advertiser covered the funeral of Janet and the below article was written.

The funeral of this esteemed lady took place on Saturday and was attended by a select circle of mourners.  At half past two o’clock the party assembled at Udston House where the devotional exercises had been conducted in a very impressive manner by the Rev Mr Buchanan, the mournful procession was formed. It was preceded by a hearse and four and consisted of five mourning coaches and three private carriages, containing the bereaved relatives and friends of the deceased.

There were happier times ahead at Udston House, Lewis’ daughter Louisiana Catherine was to marry her sweetheart, Rev Robert Black, who was the minister of the United Presbyterian Church at Chapel Street in Hamilton. I must note that the Funeral of Janet Potter and all the marriages that had taken place at Udston House were performed by the Rev William Buchanan, Rev Buchanan was not only the family’s minister but a friend of the Potter family.

Louisa WM. Rev Robert BlackWM.

Louisiana Potter was a very religious person, she was educated at Miss Law’s School in 1862 in Hamilton where she won a prize for Examination on the Epistle to the Galatians, plus a Special prize for Biblical knowledge.

On the 23rd October 1869, Lewis Potter puts an advert in the Hamilton Advertiser looking to rent an unfurnished mansion house for 1 year. He wanted a garden and Coach house and 10-50 acres of land. It is unclear if he is looking to rent, or if this was one of his own properties which he was renting out.

The staff living at Udston House in 1871 were the following:

  • Andrew Fraser (44) – Butler – Born in England.
  • Janet Stark (65) – Domestic Maid – Born at Carluke.
  • Euphemia Munro (28) – Servant – Born at Nairn.
  • Elizabeth Gemmell (25) – Domestic Servant – Born at Neilston Ayr.
  • Margaret Peri (32) – Domestic Servant – Born at Banff.
  • Jane McColl (20) – Domestic Servant – Born at Bothwell.

Other staff living on the grounds and not in the house in 1871 were:

  • Udston Stables – James Dalglish (26) – Gardner.
  • Udston Stables – John Turner (34) – Coach Man.
  • Udston Stables – Thomas Baird (43) – Land??
  • Udston Lodge – Margaret Parker (38) – Dress Maker.

Again, Lewis Potter is not employing anyone from Hamilton, this is not to say that the people who he has employed eventually moved to Hamilton prior to their employment.

Now Lewis Potter didn’t seem to appear to be an old scrooge as In June 1872 through his own kindness and at his own expense, he put on an excursion for the Chapel Street Boys and Girls Church. This Church was close to him as the minister of this parish was his Son-In-Law, Robert Black. On this day he treated the kids to a day at Udston House and when they arrived they all lined up on the spacious lawn at the front of the house and the boys and girls received buns and oranges. They were treated to a full day of sports and games and it was a fun day out in the country that the kids really enjoyed.

In September 1874 Udston House had a very special visitor. Sir Andrew Lusk, who in this year was the Mayor of London arrived in Scotland on business and with him, he had his wife. The Mayor’s wife was none other than Eliza Potter, Eliza being the daughter of Lewis and brother to Lewis Esq, Eliza had come to visit her father. They stayed at Udston House for a few nights before departing back to London.

1892 Map of Udston House..JPG

On Wednesday the 9th of April 1879 an advert appears in the Glasgow Herald, Udston House is up for let. Lewis Potter after spending around 28 years at the house has now moved out, perhaps living out in the middle of the country and having to travel is taking its toll on Lewis. He decides to move to Edinburgh and he buys himself a new and smaller house at 15 Warrender Park Road West. He lives at this new house for only two years, but his health deteriorates, and he is suffering from chronic bronchitis and dies on the 17th of June 1881, he was 74 years old. His daughter Emma is the person who registers his death.

Scottish Peer buys Udston House.

So, changes are ahead at Udston House and it is now under new ownership and it is purchased between 1879 and 1881 by the Right Honourable Madeline Louisa Keith-Falconer. Lady Madeline Louisa was the wife of Francis Alexander Keith-Falconer who was the 8th Earl of Kintore. The Earl had died in 1880 so the purchase of Udston house was done around the time of the Duke of Kintore’s death.

At this time, I can’t confirm if Madeline Louisa lived at Udston House, there are no documents that I can find to confirm that she did.  The house could have been bought as an asset to use as a source of income after her husband’s death, she did, however, lease the house to a farmer who was called Ann McCall.

In 1881 Anne or Annie as she was known was living at Udston and on the census, return it was listed as ‘Udston Mansion House’ She was recorded on the census as an ‘Annuitant’ This indicated that she was living on her own means, so she was either receiving an early kind of pension or money from an investment or insurance policy of some sort.

Annie McCall was born at Castlehill and when she had taken over the residency at Udston House she had a whole house full of servants. She had her two sons living with her who were called Charles and Robert McCall. Charles was a Farm Factor and Robert was a Commission Merchant.  The staff who were living at Udston House in 1881 were the following:

  • Jessie Fortune (59) – House Keeper
  • Mary Russell (16) – Table Maid.
  • Eliza Sinclair (37) – House Maid.
  • Jessie Laing (24) – Nurse.
  • Barbra Crosby (14) – Kitchen Maid.
  • Margaret Anderson (42) – Cook.

 

The House was well equipped with staff to look after this family and in 1881 while Annie and her boys were living at Udston there was another family living here who went by the name of MacLaverty. This was Annie’s Daughter Ann, and her husband Ronald MacLaverty and they had their son Ronald Jr living here too. Ronald Snr was also a Commissions Merchant and the family had spent some time abroad as their son was born in Singapore.

Annie McCall previously lived at Fairhill House where her husband was a Corn Factor, her husband Thomas died in 1874 and this presumably instigated her to move to Udston House. She lived here for only a short time after, where she moved on to Auchingramont House. Annie died at Auchingramont House on the 22nd of April 1899.

The staff employed & living at Udston House in 181 were:

  • Essie Fortune (70) – House Keeper.
  • Janet Wetherspoon (27) – Cook.
  • Sophia Cameron (25) – Table maid.
  • Mary Little (22) – House Maid.

As you can see by the end of 19th century the staff employed at Udston was becoming much smaller.

The third person to take ownership of Udston was Colonel John Clarke Forrest, who had spent the shortest time at Udston as he had only lived at the house for under three years.

John Forrest Estate.

Colonel Forrest in his day was a very respected man in Hamilton and in the 1880s, he was the Provost of Hamilton, Justice of Grace and Assistant Sheriff-Substitute of Lanarkshire and not to mention Captain of the 2d L R V Proviant Grand Master Middle Ward of Lanarkshire.

Colonel Forrest lived in other large houses around Hamilton, but none such as grand as Udston. In the 1890s he was living at Auchinfoot on Auchingramont Road and he was working as a Banking agent, in the 1880s, he was living at Muir House on the very busy Cadzow Street. Cadzow Street in the 1880s was the main thoroughfare to Hamilton from Glasgow.

John Forrest Death.

Colonel John Jack Forrest is the first person who died at Udston House. He died on the 28th of August 1893. The house was put up for sale only three months after his death, but it was to be quickly snapped up by another Scottish Peer.

Udston was now in the hands of the executors of John Clark Forrest! The fourth owner to acquire Udston House was from another Peerage of Scotland and upper-class family. Its new owner, who purchased the property between August & November 1893 was called Lady Georgina Belhaven and Stenton.  This family were a descended branch of the prominent Hamilton family and direct descends from John Hamilton (d. c. 1550), the illegitimate son of James Hamilton, 1st Lord Hamilton and unlike Madeline Louisa Keith-Falconer, Lady Belhaven lived at Udston House for most of the summer months.

She purchased Udston as a summer residence and there were alterations done to the villa in 1897 and later 1911 by Gavin Paterson, who was an architect from Hamilton.

Lady Belhaven lived at Udston House for quite some time, her daughter Clarice married the son of Lord Napier at St. Mary’s Cathedral in Edinburgh in December 1899. This was a very prestigious wedding with many of the Scottish upper class in attendance.

Lady Belhaven.

Now, why would Lady Belhaven move to Udston House? Well, she may have moved here to be closer to her family. Sir John Watson, 2nd Bard of Earnock was only living a couple of miles up the road at the large Neilsland House, John was related to Lady Belhaven as he was her brother and on the wedding of Clarice, he walked her down the Aisle at St. Mary’s Cathedral, it was a real family gathering of the Scottish hierarchy.

At the turn of the 20th century, country houses across Lanarkshire were slowly switching from candlelight to Electricity and previously during the 63 years of Queen Victoria’s reign, from 1837 to 1901, life in ordinary houses were transformed by a succession of technological developments which we now take for granted: flushing toilets, plumbed-in baths and showers, regular postal deliveries and light fittings capable of illuminating whole rooms at a time.

At the start of the Victorian period, most houses were lit by candles and oil lamps. Interior fittings included chandeliers (suspended from the ceiling) and sconces (fixed to the wall) however, these were mainly used on special occasions, and most ordinary events after sunset took place using portable light sources such as candlesticks, candelabra (bracketed candlesticks) and oil lamps, and by the light of the fire. By the end of the period, gas lighting was common in urban homes and electricity was being introduced in many larger houses such as Udston.

Udston House 1910 WM.

On the 18th of November 1904, it was reported in the Hamilton Herald that Udston House was to have its very own electricity supply fitted. Even back then in 1904, Udston was still classed as the countryside and at night it would have been very dark, so the new electricity system would have been a very exciting time for the staff who worked here.

Lady Belhaven eventually moved from Udston House around 1905. Now, this is the end of the trail for Lady Belhaven’s time at Udston House.

 

The staff working at Udston House in 1901 were the following:

  • Donald Chisholm (47) – Head Gardner – Udston House – Gardner’s Cottage.
  • John Thornton (17) – Bothy above Stables at Udston House.
  • George Simpson (61) – Caretaker.

 

So, around 1905 Jackson Russell is the proud new owner of Udston and at the turn of the century, we see how wealth has changed from upper class-families to working class coal-masters. This is a time when Hamilton has now become a thriving mining town. The Russell family were a hardworking one, and their empire was part of Jackson’s father who was Archibald Russell of Auchinraith House in Blantyre.

The staff working at Udston House in 1911 were the following:

  • Mark Allan (45) – Gardner – Udston Lodge.
  • James Letterick (34) – Gardner – Udston Stables.
  • Alexander Young (21) – Gardner – Udston Stables.
  • William Nicoll (24) – Chauffer – Udston Stables.
  • Alexander McCaskie (45) – Gardner – Udston Stables.

On Wednesday the 10th of July 1912 Jackson Russell puts out an advert for a table Maid at Udston House, even in this year servants still play a very important role in large houses. But It seems that he either can’t find someone to fill the role or the person that he did hire left his service as on Saturday the 17th of August and 16th of October in the same year, he puts out another advert in the Scotsman advertising the very same job.

On Saturday the 12th of May 1917 Jackson Russell and his wife treated wounded soldiers to a day out at Udston House. Along with the staff of Greenfield School in Burnbank, they entertained the patients of Caldergrove Auxiliary Hospital for the afternoon in the lovely gardens and grounds of Udston House.

The men, numbering the full complement of 30 patients, and accompanied by Nurses Cassels and Dalziel, travelled by car to Greenfield Station, where they were met by the staff. The more severely wounded men were, by the kindness of Mrs Russell, conveyed the grounds by motor.

On arrival at Udston House, the men were supplied with ices, cigarettes, etc. After a tour around the spacious grounds, croquet and clock golf were played in the roundel, and the men thoroughly enjoyed themselves. At 4.50, high tea was served, to which all did ample justice and a happy hour was spent in fortune telling and cup reading.

During tea, the company was visited by Mr and Mrs Jackson Russell, Mr Wm. Russell, London; Major. Mrs, and Miss Anderson; and the Rev. A. S. Dingwall Scott.

On the call, Mr Ballantyne, a cordial measure of thanks was accorded Mr and Mrs Russell for their kindness in granting the use of the grounds and garage and for the many other evidences of their thoughtfulness for the comfort of all concerned.

Mr Russell, in reply, assured the men and the staff that they were delighted to have them there that day, and trusted they were thoroughly enjoying” themselves.

After further time spent in games, the men left for home at seven o’clock, the motor again being brought into service to convoy the men directly to the hospital.

Before parting, the corporal in charged called upon the men to give a hearty vote of thanks to Ballantyne and his staff for their unique- entertainment. The weather was ideal, and this added greatly to the success of a happy gathering.

Like the previous owners of Udston House, Jackson Russell did his part for the local community, he was also a member of the Burnbank Burns Club and during my research of him, I found numerous reports of his involvement in the club printed in newspapers.

Russell StreetWM...

The name of Russell lives on in Burnbank, today it is better associated with Russell Street which is situated just off Udston Road. It is of no coincidence that the street is called this, as it takes its name from the Russell Family.

On the 18th May 1918, there is an advert in the Hamilton Advertiser looking for a Garden Labourer. The job offered a House, coal and light. The application had to apply to McCaskie who was the head gardener.

There was also one other resident who lived at Udston House for a brief short spell. The Pioneer of construction, ‘Sir Robert McAlpine’ who was responsible for building a good proportion of Burnbank’s concrete buildings lived here. I have to also note that he also lived in a house at Windsor Terrace and a property at Beckford Street which he built himself.

Jackson Russell was the last private owner of Udston House and by the 1920s the coal which funded his wealth was starting to become exhausted. The local coal pits which were dotted around Hamilton were starting to close and as a result, people couldn’t afford to pay for the upkeep of these grand houses. This was not to say that Jackson Russell was a poor man as he had inherited a vast wealth from his father, perhaps Jackson Russell sold Udston House because large houses were going out of fashion.

Owning a country mansion such as Udston House required a lot of staff to maintain it. You had to employ, Kitchen staff, Maids, Cooks, Gardner’s, Gamekeepers and a whole lot of other domestic servants and this required the owner to have enough funds to pay for this kind of lifestyle.

Most of the old country mansions fell into disrepair and they became inhabitable and were condemned, but Udston had a new purpose, it would be bought by the Hamilton Burgh and this would secure its future and prevent it from having the same fate as most of the other mansions that were situated all around Burnbank.

Celing.

Just like Lewis Potter, Jackson Russell moved to the East of Scotland, but further afield than Edinburgh. Jackson and his wife bought the much larger and grander Archerfield House in Dirleton. Archerfield House was later also owned by Lord Belhaven and latterly the Duke of Hamilton and today it is used as a luxury retreat.

Jackson Russell and his wife continued to live at Archerfield and did good work for charity, but tragedy struck when Mrs Russell was tragically killed in 1933 when her car overturned into a lake. Jackson Russell died at Archerfield House on the eighteenth of September 1936. At this time, I do not know if the Russell family continue to thrive in business as they did throughout their coal mining days.

Celing1

In July 1918, Udston House was shortlisted to become a hospital. The Hamilton Parochial Board and the Burgh Police Commissioners formed a joint committee to set up an infectious diseases hospital and the Provost having moved the suspension of the standing orders, submitted the following resolution:

“That the Council invite the Local Government Board to inspect Udston House with a view to its being immediately occupied as an infectious diseases hospital, which would include alterations as can be at once effected.

In the event of such arrangements being sanctioned, the Council should consider the advisability of the present hospital being utilised for maternity and child welfare purposes.”

The motion, after some little discussion, was adopted and the Council afterwards met in committee to discuss its future.

This was approved in December 1918 and the town council went ahead to put the plan into action. The gratifying announcement was made at the monthly meeting of Hamilton Town Council Tuesday the 10th of December 1918, that Udston House had been formally sanctioned by the Local Government Board as an infectious diseases hospital for the burgh.

Judge Gunn, who was the convener of the Hospital Committee had made the announcement and said the present hospital in Beckford Street would be transferred to Udston on an early date and the buildings in Beckford Street would then become available for child welfare and maternity hospital purposes. In May 1919 the building at Beckford Street was vacated and the patients were moved to Udston.

 

In 1920 the neighbouring Glenlee House was opened for a pulmonary TB Hospital with a joint Matron for both Hospitals.  In 1930 a new single storey ward pavilion, operating theatre and laundry were built at Udston, the house was now a fully functioning hospital.  Alterations were made at Udston in 1928 where extensions were added which included a new single storey ward pavilion, operating theatre and Laundry were built.

On Friday the 19th of August 1932 a local councillor by the name of John Walker who resided at Alness Street died at Udston Hospital. The councillor was in the best of health; however, he had got a cut on his head and as a result septic poisoning developed and he was admitted to Udston where he died.

Councillor Walker was a member of the Hamilton parish council as an independent. He was an elder of the St. John’s U.F. Church. His time was mainly devoted to Temperance work and he was appointed chief ranger of the Rechabite order in Scotland. One of his sons was the Rev John Walker who was sent for missionary work and at the time of his father’s death, he was in China.

Celing2

On Thursday the 21st of February 1935 a woman was arrested at Motherwell on the charge of abducting a seriously ill patient from Udston Hospital. It is unknown exactly what happened, but I assume that the sick patient was returned safely to the hospital. In the year 1935, the Matron of Udston Hospital was a lady from Larbert who was called Catherine Sinclair.

The house was indeed a working hospital, however, its large grounds still needed to be maintained, so the gardener was kept on at Udston House and in 1930 another wedding takes place on the grounds of Udston. The head Gardner who at the time was called Alexander McCaskie had a daughter who gets married to a man named Robert Crombie. The address given was Udston House Gardens.  This was to be the last wedding to take place at Udston House.

In the summer of 1935, there was an outbreak of Enterek Fever across Glasgow and one case was reported at Udston Hospital and on Wednesday the 26th of February 1936 the Rev Father John McKenna who was the curate at St. Cuthbert’s Roman Catholic church in Burnbank died at Udston. He was 36 years old and he had contracted a chill, which developed to Pneumonia.

There was an additional ward built in 1935 to house 20 extra beds, this was possibly to accommodate the outbreak of Enterek fever.

Udston hospital was a fully functioning infectious diseases hospital and in the 1930’s, it was on the doorstep of the new Udston Housing estate. Unlike today, where the grounds are welcoming for kids to play and for adults to walk around, people would not have wanted to cut through the grounds to go to the Udston Woods or cut through to go to the countryside (Which is now Hillhouse)

In 1935, the Hamilton burgh were building a lot of new houses to keep up with the demand of people who had moved to the area. The new housing programme would have been started as the collieries begun to close and the tied house which came with the coal miner’s jobs were vacated.

The lands at Udston were being transformed and the council were building houses close to the boundary of the garden of Udston House. The Udston housing estate today is known as ‘The Jungle’. In July 1935 a tragic accident occurred when a workman named John Hodge was digging a trench which he fell into and died.  He was 59 years old and had been living at 187 Low Waters Road.

 

In the 1930’s, Udston Hospital would have been avoided by everyone for the fear of catching something from the very sick patients who were unfortunate enough to be admitted to the hospital. Penicillin was first discovered by Alexander Fleming in 1929, however, it was not used as an antibiotic until the early 1940’s. When Penicillin was finally used for the treatment of what we now consider to be a ‘Minor’ infection, people would soon be treated at home and therefore freeing up spaces at hospitals such as Udston.

In 1937 the matron put out an advertisement in the Scotsman looking to employ a new Sister. The advert asked for a specific person aged between 30-38 who was general & fever certified. The salary was set at £85 per annum.

As the area around Udston and Hamilton grew, so did the requirement for additional space and more beds at Udston. In April 1938 Hamilton town council held a meeting to review the hospital accommodation and a proposal was put forward that an additional division with 30 more beds would be erected at the old Mansion House.

In April 1938 after the announcement of the new wing of the hospital another staff nurse was needed, so another advert appears in the Scotsman looking to employee a new Staff Nurse to work in the tuberculosis wing at Udston and again in April 1939, the same advert appears.

The day-to-day running’s of Udston hospital between 1939 and 1951 are quiet, and various adverts appear in local & national newspapers advertising different job positions. The days of having a job for life are disappearing and people are starting to move between jobs. There are also numerous obituaries reported in local newspapers of deaths at Udston and a lot of these are of elderly people and as antibiotics are saving more lives, younger people are overcoming diseases such as pneumonia, septic infections and other similar things.

The alterations at Udston were ongoing and on the 8th of June 1951, the board of management invited tenders to form a new hospital unit with Nurses quarters. They were looking for Carpenters, bricklayers, electricians, plumbers, plasterers & painters to put in their offers and it was also stated that the lowest offer may not be accepted, so not only was the hospital looking for the best price, it was also needing to have the best quality.

Udston was now becoming more of a working hospital with fewer admissions for serious infectious diseases. The patients are being admitted and are spending more time recovering from their illnesses and in December 1951 they were treated to a concert hosted by the D.L. Entertainers, who played music with their electric guitars. This would have been unheard of twenty years earlier as patients were admitted and most never came back out. The D.L. Entertainers also made a return to Udston in February 1953.

In December 1953 Thirteen branches of the Rangers F.C. supporters association supported a charity event to raise money to buy TV sets for hospitals and Udston was one of the hospitals to receive one of these TVs. Udston would now have its very own TV room for the patients to sit and relax, the hospital was indeed moving ahead with the times.

TVroom1.png

 

In 1951 Udston House was nearing its centenary and was in need of repairs so on the 8th of June in the same year a public notice was put out in all the major newspapers looking to for workmen to give them their quotes.

The board of management for Motherwell, Hamilton district Hospitals were inviting tenders for alterations to Udston House to form a Hospital unit and nurse’s quarters. Tenders were requested for the following trades:

Excavator, Bricks etc, Carpenter, Joiner, Glazer, Plumber, Plasterer, Electricians and painters. The contractors who wished to be placed on the list.

Udston Hospital was used as a Tuberculosis Hospital as late as 1976 and as the bacterial diseases of the past were treated and controlled with antibiotics there was no longer any need to have a TB hospital.  The hospital was eventually transformed to a retirement home where it continued to operate under South Lanarkshire Council. It was used as an old folks home as late as the 1990s and the section of Udston hospital and the former Udston House is today now used as offices for the NHS workers. I believe that that the old day wards of the Udston Hospital is now used for district nurses.

Udston Today1.jpg

When I was growing up and before my teenage years me and my old pals used to play on the grounds of Udston Hospital. There was a large grassy area and a grass football pitch behind the house and at the centre, there was a big tree and we had a rope swing on it. This was our playground and we would play here all day or run through Udston Woods. This was until the end of the 1980s when the council came in with their big diggers and chainsaws and they removed the open land and part of Udston Woods next to the bowling green. Our playground was taken from us and they built the new extension to Udston Hospital.

Udston Today2

For the next few years, we would play on the building site and what an adventure this was. We would play army and run about the new hospital and climb the roof. We then discovered that there was a secret tunnel that leads from the old extension beneath Udston house and it leads down to the old building which had the big red chimney, this just added to our adventure. In my opinion, the best thing that happened to Udston House was the fact that it was owned by South Lanarkshire Council and run by the NHS and this is the reason as to why the house still stands to this day.

Udston House is one of the survivors which links us to our Past and when I was younger I used to take it for granted that this beautiful house was on my doorstep. I have found great pleasure in researching the house and I feel very proud to have told you the story of its owners. As it stands, it is uncertain what will become of the building, I would love nothing more than to see it brought back into private ownership and for it to be used once more as a grand family home, but as I write this story I have heard rumours that the hospital is to close. One other rumour is that the newer part of the hospital which was built in the 1980s is to be sold off and the land used to build new houses. This does not surprise me as there is already a large section of my childhood playground in Udston woods been removed behind John Ogilvy High School and new houses have been built here.

Garry McCallum – Historic Hamilton. © 2018

The Watson’s Fountain.

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THE WATSON FOUNTAIN.

 

How many times have you driven past this statue and wondered what it was? This statue is actually a fountain!

The statue is one of the last remaining emblems of wealth gifted to the town by one of the coal masters of Hamilton. Hamilton’s Coal masters during the 1800s were very rich and powerful people and one of the coal masters was Sir John Watson, Bart of Earnock.

In 1893, John Watson donated the fountain to the people of Hamilton. It was erected at the junction between Cadzow Street & Muir Street. In the centre of the fountain is a woman who represents & commemorates the finding and working of coal. In her right hand, she held a miners pick and in the other hand a miner’s wire gauge Davy safety lamp. The fountain was built at a cost of £10,000 (Over £600,000 in today’s money)

Today the fountain still stands, however, the miners pick and safety lamp are both missing and the water no longer runs through the fountain.

The house behind the fountain at Muir Street are no longer there, however, they have been replaced with new flats.

I would personally like to see the fountain switched back on again! When I was young in the 1980s I can recall the water running through it, there were 4 exit points for the water at waist height and i believe there were 4 at the bottom (possibly for animals)

So thank you to Sir John Watson for donating this marvellous gift and now an antique for us – the people of Hamilton!

Torheads Farm and Lake.

Torheads Farm and Lake.
By Garry McCallum – Historic Hamilton.

Torheads Lake1.JPG

The large lands, once owned by the Watson family, stretched over 2000 acres all the way from Earnock past Torheads and down to Fairhill and Meikle Earnock and at Torheads, there is very little written about this part of Sir John Watson’s land. I wanted to tell you the story about the Torheads lake but when I started to research the lands of Torhead I thought that I would do this area of Hamilton some justice, and tell you about the people who once lived here.

Torheads Lake takes its name after Torheads Farm, which was a farm steading situated south of Hamilton Town Centre and the farmland stretched across 57 acres and it was surrounded by fields and woodland as far as the eye could see.

The first owner that I have found was a farmer called William Gardiner who was born on the sixteenth of September 1810, to parents William Gardiner Snr and Janet Hart. William Gardiner who from 1841, owned the farm and he lived here with his wife Margaret Wilson and their nine children who were called William, Janet, Margaret, John, Jane, Andrew, James, Robert and Bethia.

It seems that William was an outgoing social person, who liked to take part in things within his community. One thing that he always took part in was the local Annual Ploughing matches, where in February 1849, he judged a Ploughing Match in Hamilton and later on in 1856, he appears in the Glasgow Hearld as coming in 4th place in a ploughing competition where the Duke of Hamilton was in attendance handing out medals to the winners on this day.

William Gardiner had owned Torheads from at least 1841 up until 1863, where things seem to take a turn for the worse for William as in April 1863, he files for Bankruptcy and he loses his Farm at Torheads. At the age of 53, poor William after working at the farm his whole life is left with nothing. Torheads Farm was later overseen by the Heirs of D. Marshall Esq and was factored by Thomas Dykes of Hamilton. After 1863, the trail goes cold and I can’t find any further info on what became of William and his family.

Ellen Wilson Born at Torheads 1873.

Moving on, the next family that I found living at Torheads was the Wilson Family. In 1865, the farm steading was leased to John Wilson who was a man from Avondale in Lanarkshire and he took over Torheads and became the new tenant farmer.
John Wilson who was married to Elizabeth Blackwood leased Torheads from 1865, up until his death 17th May 1884. In the time that John and his wife Elizabeth lived on the farm, they had six children born at Torheads who were John, James, Elizabeth, Ellen, Robert & Euphemina.

As Sir John Watson started to extend his coal mining empire, he snapped up all of the land and properties around Midstonehall and Earnock, which began with the purchase of the Midstonehall Estate in April 1871. Sir John Watson wanting to put his own stamp on Midstonehall House then changed it’s name to Neilston House taking the name from a nearby Farm Steading which was to be then locally known as the Old Neilston House.

Tor Lake 1877 WM.JPG
Sir John Watson moved on and extended his land portfolio and bought the land at Torheads and in the year 1873, he arranged for a water supply pipe to be run from Neisland Mansion House to the Torheads marshy land which surrounded Torheads Farm at this time. The area was formerly known as the “Tally Ho” and it was transformed into a small lake. When the lake was constructed, a varied selection of trees were planted to form an arboretum on both sides of the glen and a rockery was also created to give it a much grander appearance.

I have to mention that the name “Tally Ho” could possibly have been used in reference to a hunting ground, but this is just my thoughts on it. The Tor Lake was more than likely designed by a Dundee man named David Mitchell, who was a former gardener of the Duke of Hamilton. David Mitchell had also helped build the beautiful gardens at the Grand Neilsland House.

In the year 1895, a man named Robert Maxwell, who was a road foreman, is now living at Torheads and renting from Sir John Watson. As Robert was a foreman, I would say that the house at Torheads was a ‘Perk of the Job’ house. Robert Maxwell, even though was living in the farmhouse and as I stated, was not a farmer, he was a Foreman and did not seem to have lived here for long, as only 10 years later the land at Torheads, is being used once again as a working farm. Robert Nisbet who was a Dairyman is now the tenant farmer and running Torheads as a milk dairy. He is now leasing part of Torheads from the Watsons and once more this tenancy is a short one as Robert died of heart failure at the age of 47, on the 21st of November 1908.

1905 Map of Torheads1.
After the death of Robert Nisbet, the farm is partly leased – yet again from the Watson’s and it was a cow feeder who went by the name of Alexander Baird, who was now overseeing Torhead Farm. Now, I know that a lot of you can relate to the name Baird as they have been a long established family of milkmen in the town.

The Bairds worked on Torheads farm from around 1910, and I have traced this family still living here in 1930, where around this time the lease seems to change hands and there is now a man named Alexander Robertson who also seems to be involved in the farm. The Bairds in Hamilton are still to this day a family of milkmen, they have Dairies in High Patrick Street, Portland Place and I believe that they have farms around the Muttonhole Road area.

Torheads Walk..JPG

I have still got much research to do on Torheads Farm and Lake and I will probably update this story for Historic Hamilton when I gather more information on it. On Sunday the 23rd of April 2017 I visited the swampy marshy land with my two sons Daniel and Ryan and as we approached the field we were greeted by two big deer, which unbeknown to us were standing watching as we walked past.

When we got as close as about 200 yards they bolted and both jumped over a big high metal fence to get away and I don’t know who got the biggest fright, them or us.

Torheads Swamp..JPG

As we approached what was once called the Taly Ho and walked down through the fields and eventually reached old Torhead Lake I was trying to imagine the fun that the Watson’s would have had when they were entertaining their guests with a game of curling. We only managed to get as far as the edge of the lake but it was a hard obstacle to tackle as the overgrown hedges and trees stopped us from going straight through. This area has now been left to mother nature.

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When I went on my trip to Torhead Lake, I was trying to find if there was still evidence of the Boat House that was seen in the picture of the Watson’s curling on the Lake. I never got as deep into the swamp as I would have liked to, but this will be another adventure for another day.

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I would like to ask our readers who live in Pembury Crescent – have you noticed any evidence of brickwork through the dense overgrown trees? For those of you who didn’t know, if you live in the row of houses from 17 to 37, where your back garden looks onto trees, you face the old Torheads Lake.

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REMINISCENCES OF MILL ROAD HAMILTON.

Cosy

The story below was written for Historic Hamilton by local author & Historian Wilma S Bolton. Wilma tells us of her time growing up in Mill Road, she talks about the a time in her life when she was a wee girl and she shares her childhood memories from the Cosy Corner.

 

The above photograph shows the bottom of Mill Road, Hamilton before it was widened by the removal of the site of the old Cadzow Colliery mineral railway line. The walls were the entrance to the avenue of large mansion house which we called Laighstonehall House. Originally known as Eddlehurst, it had been one of six large country mansions built by rich Glasgow merchants who wanted to distance themselves from the smog and dirt of the city. The house at one point became the home of the Sir John Watson  second baronet of Earnock and the birthplace of his son and heir John who was killed in action aged only nineteen years  in WW1.

Eddlehurst, like the other five mansions, sustained a lot of damage from subsidence due to underground workings and it was eventually divided into flats and let out to families. I used to play with a girl called Jacqueline Preece who lived in one of them. The floors were so uneven I felt seasick when walking across them. You were either walking uphill or downhill. Part of their flat was what seemed to me to be a large ballroom. It was void of furniture more than likely because it would have taken a kings ransom to furnish it. The house was built on the site of an ancient mill hence the name Mill Road. The mill lade can still be seen in the burn just up from the Cosy Corner.

 

Heading up the Mill Road and next door to Eddlehurst stood a large wall enclosed scary looking house which we referred to as McAffer’s.  The family who lived there in the 1940/60s sold tomatoes grown in their large greenhouses. My mother used to send me to buy tomatoes and I would take my friend Wilma Alexander who lived  next door the very short distance down to buy some. The doorbell of the house had a huge brass handle and we were scared to pull it in case we were hauled in by our necks and murdered.   All the woodwork inside of the house was varnished dark brown and the inhabitants were Mrs McAffer, a small, genteel, pleasant woman dressed in black, her son Dr McAffer and a small exceptionally thin and scared looking daughter dressed in grey whom we all called Miss McAffer.

During one of our tomato trips Wilma dared me to pick a tulip from their garden on the way out and I was easily persuaded. Big mistake! Dr McAffer who must have been watching us from the window came charging out of the door like a man possessed and we took to our heels and ran. He grabbed me out in the street and shook me so hard that I wet myself. My mother heard me screaming and what followed was an altercation over him shaking a 5 year old untill she wet herself with terror. I don’t remember if I ever went back there. Perhaps I was banned, but somehow I don’t think so. We needed the fresh tomatoes and they needed the income from the tomatoes because as my mother said “they were poor rich”. Tammy Larkin a coal merchant who lived directly across the road from our prefab rented their garage for his coal cart and the stable for his horse.

 

There were another four merchant’s houses further up Mill Road, two of which are still standing. One is across from the back of St Anne’s school and is known locally as “The Majors” after a major who lived there many years ago. Its original name was Ivy Grove and at one time was the property of a lawyer named Hay. It was a lovely house inside and outside when I was in it in twenty five years ago, but it had historic subsidence damage as have many of Hamilton’s fine old buildings.

 

The first house on entering what is now known as Graham Avenue was called Hollandbush House and it was eventually purchased by the Church of Scotland to be the Manse for the South Church and it remained so for many years. It is now privately owned.

 

The next  one was a twelve roomed house called Oakenshaw and was the one time home of Mr Colin Dunlop, jnr., coalmaster and iron smelters at Quarter village. It was also purchased by Sir John Watson Ltd, coalmasters and was eventually divided into flats and demolished sometime in the mid 1950’s.

 

Fairview was the last of these grand country houses and it again was bought by Sir John Watson Ltd, Coalmaster, to house his general managers. If only walls could talk for this house could have told many a tale as it was the site of a lot of unrest during prolonged strikes at Eddlewood Colliery.  

 

The wealthy Glasgow merchants who built these houses to live in fresh unpolluted air could never have foreseen what was in store of them. They had quite literally gone out of the frying pan into the fire.  New collieries were soon being developed almost on their doorstep and a busy mineral railway line running parallel with Mill Road was transporting coal at all hours of the day and night. The area became a mecca for thousands of people moving to Hamilton looking for jobs in the coal mines from all parts of Britain, Ireland, Germany and Eastern Europe. Conditions eventually became worse than living in Glasgow due to the smoke and pollution belching from the numerous colliery chimneys and locomotives. The stench from the raw sewage and pit waste being poured into the once beautiful Cadzow burn running behind the houses must have been quite overpowering. The peace and tranquility of their country residences vanished and all six houses were eventually sold and their original owners no doubt moved on to where the air was sweeter and there were no miners tunneling under their homes.

 

I had a wonderful childhood living in our wee prefab at 133 Mill Road. With two burns almost on our doorstep we spent many hours swinging on long ropes hanging from the trees, playing at “Dokies” (jumping the burn and generally running wild) and guddling for brown trout. The sewage from Eddlewood Rows was by then channeled into sewers the collieries had closed and the burn was a lot cleaner.  We frequently fell into the water and we would go to my friend Marjory Laird’s granny dripping wet.  Marjory lived with her and she was a woman who loved to see children enjoying themselves. We stood in front of her fire drying our clothes and then I could go home. My mother wonderful as she was, drew the line at me falling in the burn.

 

In early autumn we would light fires on a piece of wasteland behind the prefabs and which we knew as the “hutchard”. We roasted potatoes dug up with our bare hands from Mr Shearer’s garden. His daughter Alice used to cry in case he would find out but poor Alice’s pleas and tears were ignored. The smell of burning wood still brings back vivid memories of these nights for not only me but for friends who shared the experience. It wasn’t until a few years ago that I realised that the “hutchard” must have been part of what had been the old Fairhill colliery and would have been the site of their hutch yard where they stored hutches used for transporting coal.

 

Autumn was a great time for us children. We watched the chestnuts getting bigger and threw sticks at them hanging out of our reach in the trees at the entrance to Laighstonehall House. We spent hours  kicking piles of leaves over hoping to find  any big shiny chestnuts which had dropped from the trees. We also collected what seemed to me like countless hessian bags full of fallen leaves for my father to turn into beautiful leaf mould for the garden, an autumn ritual which I still continue to this day.  When my own four children were small I would waken them about six o’clock on a weekend morning if strong winds had been blowing during the night and off we would go down to the Cosy Corner searching for chestnuts and they just loved it and they all remember the excitement of finding one.  I believe the origin of the name Cosy Corner was an Italian immigrant called Cocozza who used to stand every weekend at the junction of Mill Road and Bent Road selling flowers to people walking to Wellhall and Bent Cemeteries. When asked if he was not cold standing there he replied “no it is a nice wee cosy corner.” He eventually bought a piece of land and opened a shop and cafe called it the Cosy Corner.

 

The Mill Road was a magical area for children because there were so many different places to play. Even on the old Cadzow Colliery mineral railway line where the trains were still running. I suspect that they were used for the dismantling of the colliery after it closed on the 29th December 1945.  We used to put pieces of broken glass on the line while we were walking up it on the way to Low Waters School and they were powdered when we came home. As I did not go to school until 1949 or 50 it may well have been used for other purposes.

 

Cosy1
Wilma & Eileen Bolton taken in 1947 out the back of our prefab at 133 Mill Road.

 

I inherited a love of nature from my father and I spent many hours looking for birds nests.  I vividly remember lying on top of the raised mineral railway lines with my hand reaching down into a hawthorn bush where there was a blackbird’s nest, when out of the blue I felt a hard tap on my shoulder. I shot to my feet with my heart pounding out of my mouth and found it was the local beat constable. “What are you doing on the railway line?” “Looking for bird’s nests.” “Your name?” Wilma Russell, “Are you Jimmy Russell’s lassie?” My father knew everybody!  I confirmed I was. “Away up the road or I’ll boot your erse, you shouldn’t be here” and I was off like the wind.

 

Childhood flies so quickly away and too soon it was time to earn a living. I worked in a Glasgow office for two years and then went to work in Phillips factory on the Wellhall Road after my father died. At seventeen I was really only a wee lassie and my route to work was down Mill Road to the Cosy Corner and then on to Chantinghall Road. It was a very dark road and scary at half past five in the morning. On a foggy winter’s night it was even worse. I used to take to my heels and run like a greyhound from the last house in Mill Road to the end of the houses on Chantinghall Road. On a back shift I ran the same road but from the other end. I was petrified as there was frequently the inevitable flasher hanging about in the trees. A female police officer (Laura Thorburn) who became Hamilton’s first female detective used to walk the road in an attempt to catch him. Laura was a tall slim blond and he would have spotted her a mile away and try as she did, she never did catch him; but for me somehow, that childhood haunt lost some of its magic.

 

The wonderful people of this area contributed so much to my happy childhood. Mr and Mrs Alexander in the next prefab were good people and Mrs Davidson in the end one taught me how to tell the time while sitting at her kitchen table and her border collie dog Sparkie went everywhere with me. Even down to Ballantyne’s pig sty which was just across the road from the entrance to the Bent Cemetery and where I always went in to see the piglets on the way down to my father’s plots; now Mary Street.  Sparkie never could resist rolling in the pig manure. The Larkin’s were a lovely family as were the two Lithuanian families the Bodwick’s and the Smiths living next door to them. Mrs Bodwick used to let me help collect her hen and duck eggs from the henhouse. She was such a lovely kindly woman and she always called me Velma and would press a threepenny piece into my hand whenever she met me after we moved from Mill Road to Bridge Street when I was about eleven. Good days, good neighbours and lovely memories.  

 Wilma S. Bolton ©